outback queensland retreats

From caravan camps and stories 'round the fire to luxury lodgings and scenic helicopter rides, Outback Queensland is home to a quirky mix of places to stay and tour.

By: Sarah Hinder

lara wetlands bush camping

An oasis in the harsh outback, Lara Station's wetlands offer a tranquil and community-minded atmosphere for campers just 28km south of Barcaldine. Surrounding the beautiful wetlands, abundant with birdlife and wildlife, are plenty of shady spots to set up camp, gather around the campfire and stargaze under incredible open skies. 

Taking advantage of the wetlands' natural environment, owner Jodie Jarden has developed an artesian mineral thermal pool where visitors can lounge after a long day, and a special swimming and fishing area for those who are keen to throw a line in or get wet. Being knee-deep, the rest of the wetlands are perfect for kayaking enthusiasts, and it's a birdwatcher’s paradise with over 110 identified bird species calling the region home.

The campsite offers everything you need for a comfortable stay — from flushing toilets, hot showers and some of the purest artesian drinking water in the country. 

As Jodie explains, it’s a place where people often come to stay for one night, and then often ask to extend the stay to three or three weeks, and even sometimes, the entire season.

Always striving to maintain its beautiful, unique environment, Lara Wetlands’ mandate is: “Take only pictures. Steal only time. Leave only footprints.” 
 

facebook.com/larawetlands/

shandonvale station

A 100-year-old working outback station, Shandonvale Station offers its guests an enchanting combination of luxury accommodation with personal insights into outback lifestyle. 

A one-and-a-half hour drive out of Longreach and just north of Barcaldine, Shandonvale is set upon 15,000 acres and is home to kangaroos, camels, goats, horses, up to 6,000 sheep and a plethora of birds.  

The property is owned and operated by the passionate Stent-Smith family, and Lane and Deon have been working hard since 2007 to bring the station back to life, operating at its full potential.

The property's recently renovated Shearers' Quarters opened the site up for guests wanting a taste of station life without skimping on luxury. With four Queen-sized bedrooms and a beautifully restored living area, guests can bathe in a traditional claw-foot bath and wake up each morning to a seasonal breakfast created from delicious station produce. 

Fly in a chopper over rugged landscapes, build your own campfire and enjoy a cold beer as the sun goes down. The family's dedication to gourmet regional cuisine allows guests to connect with the place their food comes, showcasing the journey from paddock to plate. 

shandonvalestation.com.au

Charleville Bush Caravan Park, Bush Camp & Bush Cottage

Set among 40 acres of bushland, Charleville Bush Caravan Park offers a homely spot to stay just 2km outside the centre of Charleville. The park boasts 32 spacious drive-through powered sites which cater to every size of caravan and motorhome, while their Charleville Bush Camp is a lower cost alternative camp for caravanners whose vehicles are fully self-contained. 

Offering terrific regional tours and tailored packages, accommodating hosts Graham and Debbie are always ready to help personalise your stay. Listen to Graham’s talks around the campfire about the local geography and western river systems. Take a tour around the historic town to discover its history, its past fires and floods. Join their 4WD Tag Along Tour, to explore Birdsville, Innamincka, Windorah and Tibooburra with seven nights of motel accommodation at each stop along the way.

While for those without wheels, their quiet Bush Cottage, surrounded by serene natural bushland and entirely self-contained, including a queen-size bed and all the mod cons one could need. As Deb says, “We're a home away from home.”

charlevillecaravanpark.com.au

red dirt tours

For insightful, personalised day tours in and around Winton, look no further than this one woman show. Locally owned and operated, Red Dirt Tours is headed up by experienced travel guide and passionate local, Vicki Jones. 

Adventures with Red Dirt Tours range from discovering our great dinosaur past and archaeological wonders with the Australian Age of Dinosaurs and Lark Quarry Dinosaur Stampede, to witnessing the natural wonders, rift formations and spectacular sunsets of Bladensburg National Park and the Rangelands, to learning all about the pioneers and history of Winton’s surrounding region in and around Carisbrooke Station.

An historic tour of town will reveal Winton for all its rich history, from its role in the famed bush ballad Waltzing Matilda to the origins of QANTAS.

With no shortage of longer tours and packages, travellers can opt for the Winton Explorer for a four-night stay in town at the Outback Motel. Or embark upon Australia’s Dinosaur Trail Tour, for six days traversing the outback dinosaur trifecta – Winton, Hughenden and Richmond – to uncover everything to do with Australia’s rich dinosaur history. 

Sit back, relax and let Vicki take the dirt roads for you.

reddirttours.com.au

middleton hotel

Located 168km west of Winton and 193km east of Boulia, the charming town of Middleton was quite aptly, yet accidently, named. 

The history of the town dates back to 1862 when the search party for the ill-fated Burke and Wills, led by John McKinlay, passed through the area. Following along the Diamantina River and then a small creek heading north-west, the party became the first white settlers to enter what is now the Winton District area. And so that same creek, just north of old Cork Station, was named after McKinlay’s second in command as Middleton Creek.

The town of Middleton was built up during the successful Cobb & Co. era, which pioneered horse-drawn coach transport and mail routes throughout the region. And so, it became that the Middleton Hotel was originally built as one of the “Nine Pillars of Cobb & Co.”, the nine horse changing stations along the 384km, four-day Winton-Boulia route. The route, Mail Service 216, flourished between 1895 and 1915. However, with the advent of the motor vehicle quickly rolling out across the country, both the era of Cobb and Co. and the town of Middleton fell into decline. 

Today, all that survives of the settlement is the Middleton Hotel, its camp grounds across the road and the disused Town Hall. However, the hotel became a quirk of the outback, and home to one of the most isolated pubs in Australia! A visit to the historic hotel today means friendly Western hospitality, quality outback grub, and perhaps a stay at the 'Hilton Hotel”'– the free camp grounds across the road, with welcome sign reading 'Vacancy, no air-conditioning, no TV, no pool, no charge'.  The toilet and shower facilities of the pub may be used for a small donation to the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Owned and operated by the friendly Cain family, a visit to the pub is a chance to find out more about the town’s rich history, outback droving and, of course, the iconic pub – while outside the hotel is an original Cobb and Co. coach just waiting to be inspected.

Middleton Hotel today is the only food and (emergency) fuel stop between Boulia and Winton, as well as such a fun and offbeat place to visit. So, despite its isolation, there are always plenty of visitors dropping by for a stay at the 'Hilton Hotel' or for a beer and some grub en route between towns. Along the scenic drive, be sure to keep an eye out for the signposted ruins of the Hamilton and Min Min hotels, and to stop by nearby Cawnpore Lookout, overlooking that stunning scenic country so long ago traversed by those early explorers and the coaches of our horse-drawn past.

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this article first appeared in outback mates magazine, winter 2018.